My Maynard Dress is finished…though my version
may not be recognisable by its designer Lauren as I’ve taken substantial liberties
with the interpretation. The Maynard Dress has only been recently published and
designer Lauren of Elbe textiles is currently blogging a sew along so for any
of you interested here's the link…
When I saw the dress being promoted on Instagram
I was immediately taken with it because it was a zero waste pattern and my
personal dressing aesthetic is always drawn to styles that are eastern and
tribal. When the designer suggested it may need to be altered to suit a wearer
of less than 5’5” (162cm) in stature this was another challenge to rise to as I’m
5’6” (165cm) and a bust size larger at 120cm than the largest grade the Maynard
is published for. So essentially my figure is – 6”(15cm) shorter and 6” wider
than what the dress is best supposed to suit…heh! we shall see!
The instructions are some of the best I’ve ever
seen and the many diagrams are large and technically perfectly illustrated. Lauren
writes in clear language that is right to the point for each step of the
construction. For those new to the concept of “zero waste” the pattern sheet
might look quite confounding! However, it is well explained how to apply it to
the fabric and how to cut. I did actually diverge from that and cut my pattern
into the sections because I wasn’t using a flat, smooth, continuous piece of textile
under the pattern. As outlined in my previous blog I patched fabrics together
to make the rectangle of 216cm x 140cm wide that was needed. This made it hard
to transfer the markings and chalk lines because my fabric was lumpy and textured
with seams so cutting the pattern sections apart to mark them was a more
practical method.
I didn’t add any allowances to the side seams
for 2 reasons - I knew there was a lot of natural ease allowed for and because
I wasn’t going to sew conventional seams which would have taken up 2cm. I used
my overlay and sew with 3-step zigzag method which allows for controlled
fraying of the cut fabric edges. The seams are only overlaid 1cm so that was
going to create a few extra cm of ease all around.
When I sewed the centre back inverted pleat I
took note of the designers suggestion that the depth of this could be altered
to suit the wearer. I decided to leave the entire middle of the pleat unsewed,
sewing it a few cm only at the top and bottom. This allowed for the width of my
back and ease of arm movement (always flapping those arms like an old chook). Another
annoying thing about being an old chook is having rounded shoulders so I made a
little downwards dart on either side of the pleat along the top....voila…the top
back now accommodated the hunchback of Murrurundi…
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alterations I made to the back |
The fronts were constructed as per the pattern
without alteration. However, I did add a large triangle gusset at each back
shoulder arm opening to allow for my rippling biceps. This an alteration the
designer takes into account that may be needed by some people and it is well
explained how to go about this. I found it easy to do and a very satisfactory
solution to getting a good fit at the armhole.
The length suits me just fine, hemlines above
the ankle and at lower calf are my preference so I didn’t add anything to the
original pattern.
I did sew a button high on the left breast and a loop to the edge of the right front so it could be looped up to hang off the button. This was done just because I like the folds that are created by doing that and served no other practical purpose. The dress folds very well over the bust and didn't require any closure for modesty. In the picture you can see another button at the centre front, but once again that was only added for embellishment. Where the dress crosses over it stays and doesn't need any assistance from closures.
Here's a picture of how the dress crosses over and is tied at the side...
I finished the hem by turning it to the outside and over sewing
it with all the tiny little strips that were cut off the sides of the fabric
when the pieces were cut out at the beginning. This may sound quite ditzy but I really liked
the effect. Over time, as the garment is worn and washed I hope that lots of
fibre will fray off to make it like a fuzzy braid.
Worn as a coat with front untied....
I like the garment worn either as a dress or
loose and open as a coat. I will sell this first version of the Maynard but are
definitely planning to add several versions in the future to my own
wardrobe.
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